Exploring Enchanting Nagamachi Samurai District
We walked a lot while visiting Kanazawa. One of the great streets we visited was Nagamachi Samurai District, southwest of the majestic Kanazawa Castle Park and Kenroku-en, a serene neighborhood steeped in the rich history of the samurai of the powerful Maeda clan. This district, once the bastion of the rulers of Kanazawa and the old Kaga Domain, offers a unique window into the lives of the samurai during the flourishing Edo period (1603-1867). A visit to Nagamachi Samurai District is not just a stroll through its picturesque lanes; it’s a journey back in time, offering a glimpse into the everyday lives of these legendary warriors and their families.
The Kaga Domain, based at Kanazawa Castle in the Chūbu region, was a powerhouse of the Edo period, ruled by the Maeda clan. Covering Kaga, Etchū, and Noto Provinces, it was the largest domain with over one million koku, showcasing significant influence and prosperity. The Maeda’s leadership, from Toshiie’s foundation to fostering cultural and educational advancements, marked the Kaga Domain as the distinguished “Hyakumangoku” region. It thrived until 1871 when it merged into Ishikawa and Toyama Prefectures following the Meiji Restoration.
As you meander through the atmospheric streets of Nagamachi Samurai District, the beautifully preserved samurai residences, or ‘bukeyashiki,’ tell tales of a bygone era. These traditional homes, with their distinctive earthen walls, stand as a testament to the district’s historical significance. The narrow lanes, flanked by these storied residences, and the tranquil canals that wind through the district, add an unparalleled charm to the area, making every corner worthy of exploration.
One of the district’s crown jewels is the Nomura house, or ‘Nomurake,’ an exquisite mansion that once belonged to a prosperous samurai family. The house, with its meticulously landscaped garden, offers a peek into the opulent lifestyle of the samurai. The inner garden, a masterpiece of Japanese landscape design, can be viewed from various rooms within the house, each offering a unique perspective on this tranquil oasis.
However, the samurai era was not to last. As the power and wealth of the samurai waned, and the merchant class rose to prominence, many samurai were forced to abandon or sell their homes. The Nomura house, now carefully restored, stands as a tribute to this pivotal period in Japanese history, open to the public for a modest fee.
A short stroll from the Nomura house leads to the Shinise Kinenkan Museum, a former merchant’s pharmacy that now showcases the life of the merchant class and displays local Kanazawa crafts. For those interested in the military aspects of the samurai, the Maeda Tosanokamike Shiryokan, a museum dedicated to samurai armor and relics, is just a stone’s throw away.
The Nagamachi Samurai District is more than just its main attractions. Small museums, quaint shops, and traditional restaurants dot the area, each offering its own slice of Kanazawa’s samurai heritage. During winter, the district takes on a unique charm as the earthen walls are covered with straw, a traditional method to protect them from the cold, reminiscent of the protective measures taken for the trees in Kenrokuen Garden.
Kanazawa, once a bustling economic and administrative hub of the Kaga Domain, has managed to preserve its historical essence, with Nagamachi being a prime example. The district, spared from the ravages of war that affected many Japanese cities, retains its Edo-period character, complete with narrow streets, a functional ancient water supply system, and the iconic samurai residences.
The Nagamachi Samurai District is not just a historical site; it’s a living museum where the legacy of the samurai endures amidst the modern cityscape of Kanazawa. Whether it’s the grandeur of the Nomura residence, the insights into the merchant life at the Shinise Kinenkan Museum, or the simple beauty of the district’s lanes and canals, Nagamachi offers a rich tapestry of cultural and historical experiences, making it an indispensable part of any visit to Kanazawa.